What is it about?

We propose a concise relationship between instantaneous wave steepness and time or fetch of wave development expressed in dimensionless wave periods or lengths. The validity of this law is illustrated by results of numerical simulations, in situ measurements of growing wind seas and wind-wave tank observations.

Featured Image

Why is it important?

This asymptotic physical law derived from the first principles of the theory of weak turbulence does not contain wind speed explicitly.

Perspectives

The impact of this new view of sea-wave physics is discussed in the context of conventional approaches to wave modelling and forecasting.

Dr Sergei Badulin
P.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology

Read the Original

This page is a summary of: Universality of sea wave growth and its physical roots, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, September 2015, Cambridge University Press,
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2015.468.
You can read the full text:

Read

Contributors

The following have contributed to this page