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What is it about?

The paper provides some applications of the depth-semi-averaged model defined in Antuono et al. [“A depth semi-averaged model for coastal dynamics,” Phys. Fluids 29, 056603 (2017)] to three-dimensional problems of wave propagation . In particular, a wide variety of phenomena typical of the coastal region, as for example nonlinear interaction between waves and the bottom bathymetry (diffraction/refraction phenomena), dispersion effects, and beach inundation are described.

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Why is it important?

The adopted model belongs to the class of non-hydrostatic schemes and is conceived to overcome some of the limits of the Boussinesq-type models. In particular, it is capable to deal with wave dynamics from shallow to deep water, describing a wide variety of phenomena typical of wave propagation in the coastal region.

Perspectives

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The idea at the basis of the model is to create a novel non-hydrostatic scheme which is a direct rearrangement of the Navier-Stokes equations, without any approximation. This allows for the description of large-scale problems (like those characterizing the coastal dynamics) without neglecting important short-scale phenomena. In my opinion, this strategy may lay the foundations of a new class of solvers for coastal dynamics that overcome the limits of the existing schemes.

Dr. Matteo Antuono
italian national research council

Read the Original

This page is a summary of: Validation of a three-dimensional depth-semi-averaged model, Physics of Fluids, February 2019, American Institute of Physics,
DOI: 10.1063/1.5080307.
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