Depths of sand bodies in wave-exposed continental shelves related to wave properties

What is it about?

In some coasts exposed to waves, sand deposits can be found forming rounded shapes in profile (classical clinoforms). These bodies have been described as "infralittoral prograding wedges." Data on their grain sizes were accumulated to work out their thresholds of motion. Using a reanalysis dataset based on meteorological data (ERA-40), the wave-induced shear stresses was computed at the depths of the rollovers during times of more extreme wave conditions. The rough correspondence between the two supports the idea of these sand bodies forming by suspension and bedload movements of sands in shallow water, which are exported towards deeper water, depositing where wave agitation diminishes. Discrepancies between the threshold and estimated stresses were interpreted as caused by influence of other currents, such as wind-driven currents.

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Photo by Michael Olsen on Unsplash

Photo by Michael Olsen on Unsplash